Indy Periodic Table

Silicon Graphics FAQs

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Indy Periodic Table


August 1996










XZ
24-bits Color

24 bits Z



Indy XZ

1.0M 3DVect

180K Tmesh

91K Polygons

Indy XZ

1.0M 3DVect

180K Tmesh

91K Polygons

Indy XZ

1.4M X11 Line

920K 3DVect

180K Tmesh

(A)
Indy XZ

1.5M X11 Line

920K 3DVect

180K Tmesh

(C)
Indy XZ

1.5M X11 Line

920K 3DVect

180K Tmesh

(A)
Indy 24-bit

Graphics




Indy 24-bit

1.6M X11 Line

601K 3DVect

46K Tmesh

(A)

Indy 24-bit

1.6M X11 Line

912K 3DVect

53K Tmesh

(A)/(C)

Indy XGE24

1.4M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

71K Tmesh

(A)
Indy XGE24

1.5M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

81K Tmesh

(A)/(C)
Indy XGE24

1.5M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

96K Tmesh

(A)/(C)
Indy 8-bit

Graphics

Indy 8-bit

1.5M X11 Line

573K 3DVect

36K Tmesh

(A)

Indy 8-bit

1.6M X11 Line

801K 3DVect

46K Tmesh

(A)

Indy 8-bit

1.6M X11 Line

912K 3DVect

53K Tmesh

(A)

Indy XGE

1.4M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

71K Tmesh

(A)

Indy XGE

1.5M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

81K Tmesh

(A)/(B)

Indy XGE

1.5M X11 Line

1.2M 3DVect

96K Tmesh

(A)/(B)


Indy

R4600PC/133MHZ

84.9 SPECint92

61 SPECfp92

75.4 AIM

Indy

R4600SC/133MHZ

113.5 SPECint92

73.7 SPECfp92

107.8 AIM

Indy

R4400/200MHZ

140 SPECint92

131 SPECfp92

130.3 AIM

Indy

R5000PC/150MHZ

3.0 SPECint95

3.6 SPECfp95

164.8 AIM VI*

Indy

R5000SC/150MHZ

3.7 SPECint95

4.2 SPECfp95

191.5 AIM VI*

Indy

R5000SC/180MHZ

4.1 SPECint95

4.4 SPECfp95

200.1 AIM VI*



(A) 32MB/1GB/17″

(B) 64MB/1GB/17″

(C) 64MB/2GB/17″


*AIM V1 is the current accepted benchmark for workstations. AIM Technologies
will no longer publish AIM III numbers in their Performance Guide.


Please Note: These systems are still available but not listed in the
August Price Book.

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Periodic Tables

Silicon Graphics FAQs

SGI traditionally published periodic tables to show the various system options, and how they compared to each other. Here’s a listing of all the periodic tables I’ve been able to find – please get in touch if you’ve found any more that should be added.

Periodic Tables of the Irises – these cover a larger product range from the time:

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Hacks

Hacks

OK, it’s not big, and it’s not clever. Never mind, here’s a list of some of the hacks I’ve been responsible for.

 

The Octane KnightRider Light Bar

Right, remember KITT from Knight Rider? Back when David Hasslehoff was surrounded by a rather naff Pontiac Trans-Am instead of the silicon splendour of Bay Watch?

KITT was cool. And the coolest part about KITT was the moving LED bar he had on the bonnet. If you didn’t grow up with Knight Rider, think Cylons. If you didn’t grow up with Battlestar Galactica, then – to be honest – you were probably an abused child. Seek help.

Now, there are a couple of problems with the stock light bar on the Octane:

  1. It uses incandescant bulbs, which are more fragile than the XIO compression connectors
  2. It’s incredibly dull on such a cool machine

Greg Douglas, over at Reputable, sells some rather nice LED light bars. They’re cool, but the shipping costs of getting them to the UK ruled them out for me.

So, what to do?

With a bit of hunting, I found KnightLight’s web site. Now, if you can ignore the appalling image of tragic mullet heads fitting this stuff to their Vauxhall Novas, you can find a LED kit for a PC, at http://www.knightlight.co.uk/pr-ks3016.htm.

Right, now, assume you have acquired one of these trinkets. Now, down to the hackery to get it fitted as the Octane’s light bar.

Remove the existing light bar

This is easy – they’ve got four ‘gripped’ tabs, a pair at either end. (See pictures below) Push them together and then pull it out towards you. Needs a bit of force, but easily done. You’ll notice there are four pins – these provide power.

Looking at the front of the Octane, the four sockets provide:

Pin 1 (left hand side) Pin 2 Pin 3 Pin 4 (right hand side)

3.6V

(All-is-well normal bulbs)

3.6V

(Testing, or "You broke me!" red bulb)

Unused
Ground

 

The LED bar will need a 5V supply, but after some extended testing (ie. none) I can conclude that it’s happy with a lower supply of 3.6V.

Attaching the LED bar

There are two ways to do this:

  1. The Proper Way – soldering wires and taking your time
  2. The Hack Way – bodge it a bit

Always remember – electricians tape is your friend.

Here’s what I did:

  • Cut off some wires from an old broken Sparc LX which had a similar sized connector on the end
  • Used a screw driver to lever open the pressed metal connectors inside the PC-style power connector
  • Jammed the wires inside the metal connectors, and then forced them shut again
  • Next, I cut a small section away from the front panel, to fit the bar in place
  • I then stuck it in place with some electricians tape

All you need to do now is put it all together and turn on your Octane – and away you go.

Pictures

No hack would be complete without some poor digital photography to provide the details.

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